Southeast

The Southeast concentrates nearly 80 million inhabitants across four states (Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo, Minas Gerais, Espírito Santo) and the bulk of Brazil's GDP. This is where the ongoing tension between megacity and Mata Atlântica plays out—this Atlantic coastal forest once covering the entire shoreline, now surviving in protected fragments within the Serra dos Órgãos, Serra da Mantiqueira, and Itatiaia park. Our English-speaking team based in the capital builds most first-time journeys to Brazil around this region, because it brings together strikingly different worlds within reasonable distances.

Rio de Janeiro is a city of relief: granite morros rise amid neighborhoods, Sugar Loaf Mountain (396 m) and Corcovado (710 m) being the most famous, but Morro Dois Irmãos above Vidigal or Pedra Bonita, the launching point for paragliding flights to São Conrado beach, tell the same geography. We recommend walking through Santa Teresa, a former villa district perched above the center, and ending the evening in Lapa for live samba on Fridays. An hour from the international airport, Niterói's coast offers the finest views over Guanabara Bay.

South of Rio begins the Costa Verde, 200 km of coastline carved between the Serra do Mar and the ocean. Paraty, founded in 1667, preserves a colonial center paved with irregular stones (the calçamento pé-de-moleque) where carts still circulate. From its port, schooners depart toward the islands of the bay and the Trindade peninsula. Ilha Grande, further north, is explored on foot: no cars, trails connecting Abraão to Lopes Mendes in three hours of forest walking.

Minas Gerais, inland, is the direct heir to the ciclo do ouro, the gold rush of the 18th century. Ouro Preto, Mariana, Tiradentes, São João del-Rei, Diamantina line up baroque churches sculpted by Aleijadinho and painted half-timbered houses. The town of Ouro Preto, at 1,100 m altitude, is explored on foot despite its steep streets. Mineiro cuisine, based on pork, tropeiro beans, sautéed collard greens and canastra cheese, is enjoyed in the fogões à lenha (wood-burning stoves) of family restaurants in Tiradentes or Lavras Novas.

Espírito Santo, more understated, attracts Brazilians for its beaches (Guarapari, Itaúnas) and mountains populated by descendants of Italian and German immigrants who arrived in the 19th century. In Domingos Martins or Venda Nova do Imigrante, Pomeranian (an old German dialect) is still spoken and socol, a typical dried sausage, is produced. It's an option for travelers wanting to step off the beaten path without moving far from Rio.

São Paulo, finally, is rarely a destination in itself for a first visit, but a logical stop for those interested in contemporary gastronomy, museums (MASP, Pinacoteca) and nightlife. The city is 430 km from Rio, either an hour's flight or six hours by road via the Via Dutra.

To discover

Paraty and the Costa Verde by schooner. Day sailing from the colonial port of Paraty to the beaches of Lula and Saco da Velha, with swimming stops in coves accessible only by sea.

Ouro Preto and the baroque circuit. Three days between Ouro Preto, Mariana and Tiradentes to understand 18th-century religious architecture, with a stop at the Bom Jesus de Matosinhos sanctuary in Congonhas for the twelve prophets sculpted by Aleijadinho.

Hiking in the Serra dos Órgãos. Two hours from Rio, the national park protects a granite massif peaking at 2,263 m. The Petrópolis-Teresópolis Crossing takes three days for experienced hikers.

Ilha Grande without cars. Forest trail from Abraão to Lopes Mendes beach, approximately 3 hours one way, through remnants of Mata Atlântica and former leper colonies.

Mineiro cuisine at the wood-burning stove. Lunch at a fazenda around Tiradentes: tropeiro beans, pork ribs, collard greens and artisanal cachaça from the Salinas region.

When to go

The Southeast experiences two distinct seasons. Southern summer (December to March) is hot and humid: Rio regularly exceeds 35°C with high humidity, and late afternoon storms are frequent, notably in January. This is high season in Brazil, with a peak around Carnival (February or early March depending on the year) and massive New Year's celebrations on Copacabana beach. Southern winter (June to September) is noticeably more pleasant for walking and sightseeing: 22 to 26°C in Rio during the day, generally clear skies, slightly cool sea (20-22°C). In highland Minas Gerais, nights drop to 8-12°C in July—bring a sweater for evenings in Tiradentes or Diamantina.

We recommend April-May and September-October as the best compromise: mild temperatures (24-28°C on the coast), moderate rainfall, and controlled visitor numbers at major sites. We avoid scheduling the Costa Verde and Ilha Grande in January-February, a period of intense rains that can make boat crossings unpredictable.

Practical advice

To properly discover the Southeast, we recommend 12 to 14 days, enough time to combine Rio (4 nights), the Costa Verde with Paraty and possibly Ilha Grande (3 to 4 nights) and a circuit through colonial towns in Minas Gerais (4 to 5 nights) with entry via Belo Horizonte. Rio's international airport (GIG) is the most logical entry point, with direct flights from Paris. Belo Horizonte (CNF) is an hour's flight from Rio and serves as the gateway to Minas Gerais.

The region combines well with the Northeast for those wanting to extend to the beaches of Bahia or Pernambuco (two to three hours' flight from Rio), or with the Amazon via Manaus for greater contrast. Comfort levels are high: charming pousadas in Paraty and Minas Gerais, boutique hotels in Rio, restored fazendas in the interior. This is a region suited to families with children from 7-8 years old, couples who enjoy alternating between city, beach and heritage, and travelers drawn to architecture and gastronomy. Hikers will find plenty to do in the Serra dos Órgãos and Mantiqueira without needing to venture further.