Casa dos Contos, or House of Counts, occupies a colonial building in the historic center of Ouro Preto, in the state of Minas Gerais. Constructed between 1782 and 1787, the building served as a tax administration hub for weighing and smelting gold extracted from the surrounding mountains. Today it houses a museum dedicated to the Brazilian gold cycle and the social memory that accompanied it.

Why visit the House of Counts

Casa dos Contos encapsulates two essential chapters of Brazilian history: the wealth of 18th-century gold extraction and the political tensions it generated. A visit here allows you to understand how Ouro Preto, long the capital of Minas Gerais captaincy, structured the colonial economy around gold. The building is also distinguished by its Baroque architecture, ceilings painted by Mestre Ataíde, and its monumental stone staircase. Free admission and on-site documentation make it an accessible and substantial stop to include in a UNESCO-listed historic center tour.

History of Casa dos Contos

The building was commissioned in the late 18th century by João Rodrigues de Macedo, a wealthy royal tax contractor. Its initial role: to centralize gold taxation, weigh ore extracted from neighboring mines, and smelt it into ingots before taxation by the Portuguese crown.

The house quickly assumed a political role. It served as a prison for several members of the Inconfidência Mineira, a movement of revolutionaries seeking to emancipate Brazil from Portuguese rule in the late 1780s. This episode left a lasting mark on the collective memory of Minas Gerais and gives the site a memorial dimension that extends beyond its fiscal history alone.

A restoration campaign conducted in 1984, marking the building's bicentennial, stabilized the structure and preserved original decorative elements.

What to see inside

Exhibition spaces unfold across multiple levels and combine collections, archives, and reconstructions.

• The Gold Cycle Studies Center (Ceco): over two million original 18th-century documents, a major resource for researchers studying colonial economics.
• The Coin Museum: coins and banknotes tracing the evolution of the Brazilian monetary system, from colonial real to contemporary issues.
• The Smeltery Room: interactive presentation of the gold smelting and coining process, with reconstructed tools and furnaces.
• The basement exhibition: section devoted to the living conditions of enslaved Africans, with instruments of servitude. It documents the dark side of gold extraction and its demographic impact on the region.

Notable architectural elements

• Baroque façade with sculpted stone portal.
• Monumental stone staircase connecting the levels.
• Ceilings painted by Mestre Ataíde, a major figure in colonial painting of Minas Gerais.
• Woodwork, sculpted cornices, and ashlar stone columns characteristic of Minas Baroque style.

Practical information

Address: Rua São José, downtown Ouro Preto, MG.

Admission: free entry.

Visits: there are no official guided tours, but staff are present in each room to answer questions and provide context for the collections. Allow 1 to 2 hours for a complete visit. Opening hours vary by day of the week and holidays; check them before visiting.

When to visit

The climate in Minas Gerais is temperate at altitude, milder than on the coast. The dry season, April to September, offers pleasant conditions for strolling the paved, steep streets of Ouro Preto. The rainy season, November to March, brings frequent showers late in the day but maintains mild temperatures.

Semana Santa (Holy Week) is a major event in Ouro Preto, with processions and colorful flower carpets in the center streets. The festival draws large crowds: book accommodations in advance. The Winter Festival in July also enlivens the city with a dense cultural program.

How to get there

From Belo Horizonte (capital of Minas Gerais): allow about 2 hours by bus from the bus station, or equivalent driving time via BR-356, a scenic route through Minas highlands.

From Rio de Janeiro: overnight buses connect Rio to Ouro Preto in about 7 hours. The option of flying plus bus via Belo Horizonte airport (Confins) is faster but less direct.

On site: the historic center is best explored on foot. Streets are narrow, paved, and steep; parking is limited and comfortable shoes are strongly recommended. Casa dos Contos is located just minutes' walk from the main churches and squares of the center.

What to see nearby

Ouro Preto and Minas Gerais offer rich terrain for extending your visit. The historic center is home to several Baroque churches, including São Francisco de Assis and Nossa Senhora do Pilar, as well as the Museum of Inconfidence on Tiradentes Square. To discover other facets of natural Brasil, you might also consider Chapada dos Veadeiros National Park, Anavilhanas National Park in the Amazon, or Mato Grosso do Sul sites such as Gruta do Lago Azul, Estância Mimosa, and Buraco das Araras.

Frequently asked questions

Planning your trip

Casa dos Contos naturally fits into an itinerary devoted to colonial towns in Minas Gerais. To build a complete journey including Ouro Preto, Mariana, Tiradentes, and other Brazilian stops, consult our customized trips to Brasil.